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Post by Mr. Metallic on Nov 29, 2022 7:23:15 GMT -5
Here's a question I did not ask you earlier.......if you were to move the front seats forward to where they should be is there enough room to do so or does the trans tunnel interfere or the interior get too narrow to move them far enough ahead? Perhaps we should come back to the notion of offering a front bench seat with the rest of the interior parts.......it would remedy all of the possible issues I mentioned above...i.e. hide the seat risers and fit over the trans tunnel without dealing with the interference issues the bucket seats contend with. Plus, it's almost cooler looking........and expected to be there to begin with I think. As part of our ongoing discussions in PM I'm petty sure we discussed it. With the divider in place it moves the front seat(s) forward to the point where there's no legroom. I sure know I wouldn't want to drive it in 1:1. The second issue is I have been unable to source another Tudor floor/rear seat to even start making a matching front bench. I asked around a bunch of Facebook groups and didn't get a response. These issues are things that can be overcome, but I abandoned them after our last discussion on the issue.
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Post by krassandbernie on Nov 29, 2022 15:43:52 GMT -5
Here's a question I did not ask you earlier.......if you were to move the front seats forward to where they should be is there enough room to do so or does the trans tunnel interfere or the interior get too narrow to move them far enough ahead? Perhaps we should come back to the notion of offering a front bench seat with the rest of the interior parts.......it would remedy all of the possible issues I mentioned above...i.e. hide the seat risers and fit over the trans tunnel without dealing with the interference issues the bucket seats contend with. Plus, it's almost cooler looking........and expected to be there to begin with I think. As part of our ongoing discussions in PM I'm petty sure we discussed it. With the divider in place it moves the front seat(s) forward to the point where there's no legroom. I sure know I wouldn't want to drive it in 1:1. The second issue is I have been unable to source another Tudor floor/rear seat to even start making a matching front bench. I asked around a bunch of Facebook groups and didn't get a response. These issues are things that can be overcome, but I abandoned them after our last discussion on the issue. Gotcha.......forgot about the leg room issue. Perhaps there is a happy medium somewhere.......if you can source another floor pan to use as fodder. I am sure you'd have it by now if this forum weren't so stale lately. There are a number of great people here who have always been willing to come to my aid and others.
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Nov 30, 2022 6:54:36 GMT -5
if you can source another floor pan to use as fodder. I am sure you'd have it by now if this forum weren't so stale lately. There are a number of great people here who have always been willing to come to my aid and others. Yeah, that's why I didn't even post up a request here. I've had lots of help here in the past, and helped many people out with parts as well. The community we have here is filled with great people. But it didn't seem worth the effort since this place is pretty much a ghost town anymore. But I just realized I'm being silly...how much effort does it really take to post a parts request?
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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Nov 30, 2022 14:26:27 GMT -5
Craig, can't help you with the parts. Sorry.
Three things. 1) Because the seats are "chair height" you don't need near the legroom as in a modern car. Years ago I had a 38 Dodge and at 6'1" I set very close to the wheel because the height of the seat. 2) If you grind of the outside corner of the seat to fit the contour of the panel so that the inside seat back sets against the divider I think you will pick up enough leg room. 3) Since nobody's actually going to sit in the car the question really is which looks better, with divider or without?
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Dec 1, 2022 7:38:24 GMT -5
Craig, can't help you with the parts. Sorry. Three things. 1) Because the seats are "chair height" you don't need near the legroom as in a modern car. Years ago I had a 38 Dodge and at 6'1" I set very close to the wheel because the height of the seat. 2) If you grind of the outside corner of the seat to fit the contour of the panel so that the inside seat back sets against the divider I think you will pick up enough leg room. 3) Since nobody's actually going to sit in the car the question really is which looks better, with divider or without? Thank you for your insights Dave. Normally I would have rolled by these types of issues already if it was just for me because I tend to build with the "looks good" mentality. But since this is a potential resin conversion that will end up in hands of fellow modelers and could have Ed's name on it if he decides it's worthy I'm tending to sweat the details. But you are correct about the seating position being quite different on old cars vs. modern cars. I really do appreciate it. With that being said, progress is being made, just not a lot "picture-worthy" stuff. The top received it's first coat of primer last night and revealed a few small pinholes in the bodywork that need to be addressed. Once those are addressed it will receive several coats of primer per Ed's request. The body is essentially ready with the exception of addressing a couple small things where the firewall interfaces with the cowl. So the last remaining major bit is the interior floor and front seat. After going over things I need to eliminate the molded in seat risers on the Tudor interior. The easiest way to do this would be to swap in the floor from a Speedwagon kit since it is the same length in front of the seat as the Tudor interior, but is flat. This pic is from a past project to illustrate what I'm talking about, I have exhausted my own personal stash. Does anyone happen to have a speedwagon floor? I just really feel this would simplify the amount of work required to get a flat floor. If I can't source one I will still address it, it will just take longer and require more work. The other interiors in the Revell series are all too short.
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Post by Murphy on Dec 1, 2022 9:19:16 GMT -5
PM sent
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Dec 1, 2022 12:02:25 GMT -5
Murphy, i can't thank you enough. Especially for dipping into your spares box not once, but twice.
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Dec 5, 2022 7:35:37 GMT -5
Thanks to two generous donations (which required two trips to the post office) by Murphy (John Seffl) I got the interior bits I needed to move forward. I decided the easiest course of action to get rid of the molded in bucket seat risers was to swap in the flat floor from a Speedwagon. The other interiors in the 32 series were all too short to get the job done. Care needs to be taken to ensure the interior doesn't get longer or shorter while doing this, so I took my time and measured several times and cut once. Here is a comparison of the two interiors. The reason not to simply use the Speedwagon interior is that the wheel cell covers are molded to the rear seat on the Tudor, and the way the back seat meets the body. I highlighted in black a reference line at the front of the floorboard and on the underside where the pins on the chassis locate the floor. As log as I double checked all of my cuts from those two lines I should have been able to maintain the "stock" length. You'll note that the cut line on the Speedwagon interior is slightly further back. That is to give the Tudor seat a place to land and a nice large glue surface. I severed the rear seat from the Speedwagon floor and then marked where the wheelwell covers of the Tudor interior should land, and then set about to sever the Tudor seat. I cut the Tudor seat slightly ahead of it's cut line, and then proceeded to remove material from the bottom up to the black line so I got a nice true and straight surface to meet the new floor. After cutting new notches in the side of the interior floor to accept the Tudor side panels I was able to perform the mockup. As you can see, it came out well. I still need to fill the old notch. I spent the rest of my bench time working on a front bench seat. Stay tuned.
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Post by lo51merc on Dec 5, 2022 9:49:23 GMT -5
So far so WOW! Enjoying!!! Gary
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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Dec 5, 2022 18:45:15 GMT -5
Great job yet again Craig.
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Dec 6, 2022 13:21:39 GMT -5
Getting to the end of the interior work. After deciding that the center divider that I had made by cutting up the rear of a scrap Tudor body just wasn't going to work, I decided to try cutting the rear off an AMT AlaKart body, and bingo! The right width, and it isn't so concave, so it allows more foot room in the rear seat area Finalizing the divider allowed me to finally work on the front seat. I cut the rear seat off the Tudor interior Murphy sent me (thanks again!) so the upholstery matched the rear seat. Had to cut several rows of pleats off each side of the upper section to fit the narrower front area. I added side panels to the seat made out of .040 sheet. After discussing it with Ed I'm going to smooth off the edges and mold them into the seat to make them appear like upholstery instead of metal sides. But the general shape is there. I need to also clean up the rear edge where the seat meets the divider and do a few little cleanup items to get the interior buttoned up. But it feels like it's in the home stretch.
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Dec 7, 2022 9:17:55 GMT -5
Got the front seat pretty much dialed in. Sanded to meet the contour of the new divider, and molded in the sides to appear as upholstery rather than metal. Also filled in the old unnecessary notches in the floor for locating the Speedwagon side panels. So other than a few swipes here and there with a sanding stick and a couple more coats of primer on the uptop, things are pretty much ready for shipment to Ed after his approval pending a bunch of close up pics I owe him so he can evaluate any issues before I actually ship them his way. Still no guarantees he will add this to his line, but at least I got this conversion done for myself if he decides not to offer it. Sadly, like I said this is the second time I've done a phaeton master, but honestly this one is much better than the first one.
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Post by chepp on Dec 7, 2022 9:23:21 GMT -5
Now THAT looks especially good. Thanks, Craig, for taking the extra time (and thanks to those getting parts to you) to get it right.
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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Dec 9, 2022 15:36:19 GMT -5
Great Craig.
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Post by krassandbernie on Dec 14, 2022 2:47:17 GMT -5
I am liking what I'm seeing so far Craig! Taking your time to make sure each little issue is resolved and done well is worth it in the end!
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