Mr409, I have used all sorts of superglues from cheap stuff to Zap to the stuff hobby stores sells with their labeling on it. I prefer the really thin stuff, because it eventually thickens up in the bottle over time.
90% of the time I use files, not sandpaper to level areas with superglue. A long time ago I read that sandpaper will dig into softer plastic before it cuts into the superglue, & I have found that to be be true most of the time. But for very thin, small applications, like the fillet above the drip rails, sandpaper works fine.
Another thing to try is to sand it as soon as it is dry & don't use accelerator.
There were some uneven gaps between the rear fenders & the body, so I added some Evercoat filler. I also filled in the taillight recesses. I usually pile on more filler than what's needed so that it can be sanded to shape after it cures.
Now the gaps between the body & fenders are more consistent. I also added filler to the area below the rumble seat opening because it was too flat straight from the kit.
This shows the added curvature created by the filler below the rumble seat. I also added filler to the body corner trim in front of the rear fender to make the radius that was non-existent on the kit.
The belt line on both sides have been modified to look more rounded like the 1:1 & not so flat.
The fit of the hood & body still needs work, but I like the flow of the profile.
Using various sizes of styrene, I made the floor & fenders into one cohesive unit. I also added in the inner front fenders from the Monogram 37 Ford kit. All stuff that I had seen on one of Rik Hoving's older builds.
The top of the roof was a bit flat, so I added filler to build it up. Lots of sanding followed.
The windshield opening was a not quite tall enough so I raised the top of it about 1 scale inch. I added .015" styrene on the inside of the opening for the new windshield frame that I built.
I rebuilt the windshield surround with a sheet if .015" styrene sheet & built a frame around it on the backside using .020" x .060" strip.
Using dividers, I scribed following the edge, making the outline that would later be cut out.
I used a motor tool to grind out the middle portion of the sheet.
Then, cleaned it up with files & sanding.
I cut a piece of .010" clear PVC sheet to fit in the opening as "glass".
Post by Bernard Kron on Apr 5, 2015 21:42:51 GMT -5
Nothing so satisfying as the dull sheen of accurately cut and finished styrene. Beautiful work. The shape of the side windows are especially satisfying , the enlarged windshield area and the rounded top only making them even more successful.