'29 Ford Highboy Roadster/Dragster -

[Duane]

lookin good Jim; keep; up the good work !

[41chevy]

That looks wicked good!

[superflekmoonbird]

Mounted tube shocks and applied resin bolts.
Trial fitting headers over frame.

[tomqvaxy]

looks like it would hold steady "at speed".

[Dave from Pleasanton]

Jim, it looks to me like the tie rod ends are on upside down. They normally connect to the bottom of the backing plate. I don't see how you're going to get the tie rod from one side to the other. If you've got it all planned out then ignore me. Really great work.

[Dennis]

Mar 31, 2021 20:56:36 GMT -5 Dave from Pleasanton said:

Jim, it looks to me like the tie rod ends are on upside down. They normally connect to the bottom of the backing plate. I don't see how you're going to get the tie rod from one side to the other. If you've got it all planned out then ignore me. Really great work.

On Model A’s (the axle and spindles here are from Revell’s 29/31 Ford kits) the steering arms are separate pieces that bolt through the tops of the spindles.

[superflekmoonbird]

Mar 31, 2021 20:56:36 GMT -5 Dave from Pleasanton said:

Jim, it looks to me like the tie rod ends are on upside down. They normally connect to the bottom of the backing plate. I don't see how you're going to get the tie rod from one side to the other. If you've got it all planned out then ignore me. Really great work.

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Yep.
I've been using the dropped front axles from the Revell 29 Rat Rod kit, and on the first one I built I instinctively put it together exactly as you said.
Then I looked at the kit instructions....(see pictures here) and compared the steering arms to picture library.......they all had the steering arms on top vs. bottom.

So I had to redo it thinking it might be inaccurate.


I rebuilt it per instructions but as you can see the tie rod will have a problem passing through the engine compartment unless I drop extensions from each steering arm down to link up with a tie rod below the frame. 

[Dennis]

Mar 28, 2021 18:06:10 GMT -5 superflekmoonbird said:

Mounted tube shocks and applied resin bolts.
Trial fitting headers over frame.

Looking good!

[Dave from Pleasanton]

That will teach you to follow directions. :-) That really sucks. It's odd that Revell would combine the idler arm with the tie rod end so that you're stymied as to what to do.

[superflekmoonbird]

I thought about breaking the links apart and doing them differently to more easily accommodate a tie rod below the frame, but these are fragile parts as is, and I didn't want to take them apart, reglue them and make them
more fragile.

I think I can resolve the tie rod issue, but I won't do the builds in the future like this.

[superflekmoonbird]

Found a resin bomber seat I like....(R&M).
Bent some brass rod to make a tubular seat frame.

[superflekmoonbird]

Looking at the seat frame in the picture,   it looks too fat.
Maybe its the picture, and the camera adds ten pounds, but I didn't like it.
Found smaller diameter brass rod in the stash, and bent a new one from 1/32 " dia. rod.
Smallest brass rod I have. Here's the comparison.

[superflekmoonbird]

Made a smaller diameter roll bar as well.

[tomqvaxy]

both components fit the cockpit more-better.

do the dimple-dies on the seat leave enough support for the dingle-dangle?

[41chevy]

The seat mount #2 and the roll bars came out good. Is the seat resin? Are you going for a touneu cover? Paul