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Post by Plowboy on Feb 18, 2020 9:22:02 GMT -5
That Ardun is going to look kickass! I'm thinking that the headers from the Phantom Vickie kit will fit that engine if you want that type of header.
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Post by Dennis on Feb 18, 2020 9:28:08 GMT -5
That Ardun is going to look kickass! I'm thinking that the headers from the Phantom Vickie kit will fit that engine if you want that type of header. Funny you should mention that...
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Post by krassandbernie on Feb 18, 2020 14:23:27 GMT -5
Awesome 'magazine angle' shots...........love it! I can't wait to see this one wrapped up! When I saw you had replied I was so ready read you giving me shit for changing the wheels, LOL! Now that doesn't sound like something I would do at all! LOL! While I liked the wheel/tire combo you initially had mocked up; I still dig it with the new rolling stock!
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Post by Dennis on Feb 23, 2020 23:07:13 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Feb 24, 2020 7:47:19 GMT -5
UPDATE!Moving along, I'm planning to use over-the-frame lakes style headers so the existing high angle steering shaft had to go. I cobbled together a new low-profile linkage using a piece taken from the Revell '26 Sedan Delivery which has u-joint and support bracket detail. Dammit Dennis, you make parts sourcing an art. Every build you do you shine a light on some part that I never would have thought of, but makes total sense. This steering linkage is just another example. You the man.
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Post by Dennis on Feb 24, 2020 11:05:11 GMT -5
UPDATE!Moving along, I'm planning to use over-the-frame lakes style headers so the existing high angle steering shaft had to go. I cobbled together a new low-profile linkage using a piece taken from the Revell '26 Sedan Delivery which has u-joint and support bracket detail. Dammit Dennis, you make parts sourcing an art. Every build you do you shine a light on some part that I never would have thought of, but makes total sense. This steering linkage is just another example. You the man. Thanks, Craig! This one required some thought because there's really not a lot of kits out there with complete hot rod steering linkage, like the old Buttera T kits. In fact, they're about the only ones!
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Post by krassandbernie on Feb 26, 2020 21:10:15 GMT -5
Hummina hummina hummina! I LOVE it more now then when you first started! I think you chose the perfect induction setup........and the wheel/tire combo is perfect too! Now, don't go screwing it up with some lawn and garden tractor paint color! LOL!
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Post by spex84 on Feb 27, 2020 10:58:34 GMT -5
Lol. "America's Most Beautiful Tractor Paint"..."Lawn Ridler Award"...sounds very contemporary! I think this car would look great in a subdued color, personally. But *shrug*
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Post by krassandbernie on Feb 27, 2020 21:29:52 GMT -5
Lol. "America's Most Beautiful Tractor Paint"..."Lawn Ridler Award"...sounds very contemporary! I think this car would look great in a subdued color, personally. But *shrug* You just gotta stir the pot, don't ya! LOL! I still think a solid color would suit this build better than a candy or heavy metal flake paint job; but the burgundies, dark blue, dark greens, tan, dark grey, and black are becoming quite cliche/contemporary 'Street Rodder' magazine in my eyes. What would be different (and traditional) would be to pick a 1950's-1960's domestic car paint color like guys were prone to do back in the day. They'd see a new color just debuted on the '57 Chevy (for example) and decide to paint their hot rod that color. What do you say Dennis?! Can we think outside of the Crayola box on this one?! LOL!
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Post by chepp on Feb 27, 2020 22:57:08 GMT -5
That's looking really good. X2 on Ed's color comments in the previous post.
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Post by Dennis on Feb 28, 2020 0:48:23 GMT -5
Thanks for the discussion, guys! To be honest I was thinking about taking a break from shiny paint all together and leave the body finished in brown primer...
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Post by krassandbernie on Feb 28, 2020 1:03:53 GMT -5
Thanks for the discussion, guys! To be honest I was thinking about taking a break from shiny paint all together and leave the body finished in brown primer... C'mon! This thing is screaming for a nice period correct paint job! There is a middle ground here that I think could be better than both ends of the spectrum (primer finish vs paint)...........and that would be a true slap it together and drive it in the patina the parts were gathered in. For example, the body could still be wearing it's original lacquer paint that is now a bit worn through, weather faded, and checked! I'm not talking about weathering it to look like it's half rotted. These '33 Willys pickup doors are a good example of what I am referring to. I just wish I could remember exactly what I did over a decade ago to achieve this look. I know it was nothing special......just shot some red oxide primer down, sprayed a little semi gloss black over it with some lacquer thinner or enamel thinner flicked at it I think.....dabbed a little Testors black enamel on it with a brush..blew some baby powder off of my hands onto the doors while the paint was still tacky....rubbed it with my fingers before the paint was completely cured? Not sure now; but I didn't use any specialty paints. You get the idea........
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Post by Dennis on Mar 1, 2020 23:19:35 GMT -5
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Post by spex84 on Mar 2, 2020 0:34:41 GMT -5
Slick! I'm glad you put in the effort to create a full exhaust, it looks great.
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 2, 2020 12:50:08 GMT -5
I like the dual exhaust Dennis! Not sure if I like the headers and dual exhaust. This is something I've struggled with on a couple of builds. To me, the down pipes connected to the headers have a "tacked on" look. Even the Revell kits. I had megaphones with down pipes/exhaust on my F-1 and never was satisfied with it until I got rid of the exhaust. It made it look so much cleaner and neater looking that I didn't use an exhaust on my '37 pickup for that very reason. But, then you have a model with open headers. Which is worse? I think they could work together if a person could angle the headers down to where the bottom of the open ends of the headers were flush with the bottom of the frame and connect the exhaust to the backside of the headers through a corresponding hole in the frame so the pipes aren't "visibly" connected to the headers if that makes sense. It's something I want to try if/when I build another model with the megaphones. Please don't take my comments as criticism as they're in reference to my models.
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