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Post by chepp on Apr 14, 2020 16:20:29 GMT -5
Here's a more-or-less straight traditional rod. I have the parts (resin parts are ordered) so here's my idea. The Cad engine is marked "354 c.i." but I could find no reason for that number. Apparently it's a 331 bored out. Just to keep this from being a bellybutton (everybody has one) rod I'll make it a little different with the "Little Deuce" grille instead of a PE metal one.
This is one I'd like to finish in a reasonable amount of time so there won't be any bodywork (thanks Dennis and Ed!) and minimal fabrication. As always, comments and suggestions are welcome.
Added a few hours after my first posting: I'm rethinking things based on the first two responses so be sure to weigh in with your comments.
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Post by krassandbernie on Apr 14, 2020 18:19:37 GMT -5
I like your vision already! I'm not a fan of tan interiors in '60's era rods; but that's just my personal quark! LOL! I think the frame would look better body color too.......just an opinion though.
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Post by Bernard Kron on Apr 14, 2020 19:18:53 GMT -5
A really tasty combination you have there, and I really dig the graphics you made to show it. Should look sharp!
I don't know how well the Revell '29 Ford Deuce frame fits the actual Deuce body. I'm thinking it might be too narrow. But one thing I have noticed is that all the Deuce-framed Revell '29 highboys I've seen completed suffer from a bit too high a stance. The Revell '29 kit is a super source for parts, especially the front suspension. You might want to check out the standard Revell 1/25th '32 Ford frame and adapt the '29 parts as a better way to get to a proper stance if the chassis width proves to be an issue. Regardless I suspect you'll land up tweeking the stance fairly significantly.
I'm curious to see what recommendations come up for chromed reverse rims, especially deeper rear rims which I suspect is what you're after. I've usually wimped out and used the one's from the AMT '29 Ford Roadster kit. They're real deep and look good, but they aren't bare wheels - they have a baby moon molded in place. Combined with the narrower front reversed chromies from the AMT '53 Ford kit, they make a great looking set. but as I said, they all have the moon caps. The recent AMT '36 Ford Coupe re-issue has nice chromed reversed rims, and they're bare, but they're the same width all around and not particularly deep, IIRC. My favorite deep dish steelies are the ones in the AMT '49 Ford coupe kits, but they're not chromed.
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Post by chepp on Apr 14, 2020 22:13:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the comments...keep 'em coming!
Body/frame color: When I showed things in my first post I was considering channeling the body over the frame (but didn't want to commit to it). So, having a black frame for a street-driven rod seemed to be a practical color for that. But the more I think about it, the more I'll keep the body up on top. That will mean painting the frame and body the same color as Ed suggests. Instead of candy red, a more reasonable color, especially for the late '50s, would be a production car metallic paint such as a 1957 Buick Garnet Red.
Interior color: Wow, you're right again Ed. I hadn't realized how street roddy a tan color would look. My thinking was that while I like black interiors for rods and racers it's going to be dark inside a chopped 3-window so I'd better choose a light color. White would look too much like a custom and light gray would look too much like those tweedy show cars.
Frame fit: Yikes! Thanks for the warning, Bernard. I was trying to come up with a slightly different but easy-to-build car from stuff I mostly already have. I was saving the '29 roadster to make into a pre-WW II lakes/rod.
This 5-window pic from the HAMB chrome-reverse thread shows kinda what I'm thinking of. Disregard the louvered trunk, the cheater slicks and (probably) the wide whites.
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Post by Duane on Apr 14, 2020 22:27:28 GMT -5
Charley; B. has a great idea, the rear rims of the '49 Ford; send them to be chromed, and you're in business ! i like where your '32 is gonna go keep it up !
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Post by Dennis on Apr 14, 2020 23:17:37 GMT -5
Sounds like an interesting pile of parts. Like Bernard, I’m not sure how the ‘32 style frame from the A kits is gonna play with the ‘32 body. Especially with it being pinched in the rear. Might be okay for a channeled car but not so much otherwise. As Bernard mentioned, that chassis has a tall stance as it comes because the front cross member dips down in the middle a lot. You can shave the spring down but that doesn’t make a dramatic difference.
There’s a pair of deep and cap-less chrome reverse wheels in the AMT ‘57 Chevy but they are WAY too small for the ‘41 Lincoln tires. In fact, it’s gonna be tough to find any wheel in that style that’s a good fit for those tires.
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Post by krassandbernie on Apr 15, 2020 1:03:31 GMT -5
Thanks for the comments...keep 'em coming! Body/frame color: When I showed things in my first post I was considering channeling the body over the frame (but didn't want to commit to it). So, having a black frame for a street-driven rod seemed to be a practical color for that. But the more I think about it, the more I'll keep the body up on top. That will mean painting the frame and body the same color as Ed suggests. Instead of candy red, a more reasonable color, especially for the late '50s, would be a production car metallic paint such as a 1957 Buick Garnet Red. Interior color: Wow, you're right again Ed. I hadn't realized how street roddy a tan color would look. My thinking was that while I like black interiors for rods and racers it's going to be dark inside a chopped 3-window so I'd better choose a light color. White would look too much like a custom and light gray would look too much like those tweedy show cars. Frame fit: Yikes! Thanks for the warning, Bernard. I was trying to come up with a slightly different but easy-to-build car from stuff I mostly already have. I was saving the '29 roadster to make into a pre-WW II lakes/rod.
This 5-window pic from the HAMB chrome-reverse thread shows kinda what I'm thinking of. Disregard the louvered trunk, the cheater slicks and (probably) the wide whites.
That was my exact thinking on the tan interior.....'70's 'street rod'. Here are some 1:1 rods that might give you a few ideas. I like the '50's era upholstery on the light blue 5 window! Gives it a real neat period touch that you don't see too often. Many guys painted their hot rods with contemporary factory colors through the '50's and '60's; but you didn't see as many interiors follow suite with borrowed fabrics. This would have been a lot easier back to do back then I think too. I just dig this deuce! This one is pretty cool too!
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Post by spex84 on Apr 15, 2020 12:35:30 GMT -5
A deep chrome-reverse wheel that fits the'41 Lincoln is going to be difficult to find. The AMT '51 Chevy hardtop has deep chrome reverse wheels that are similar to, but deeper than the AMT '36 wheels. Problem is, they're AMT, and will be floating in the center of those big 41 Lincoln tires.
My suggestion? A Revell Beatnik bandit or Revell '49 Mercury chrome reverse wheel, with an added "sleeve" made from a larger-diameter wheel. I just dug through the stash; I think it might be possible to slice the back rim off of a later-model wheel and fit it to the '41 Lincoln tire. If you have a Revell '41 Chevy PU, Revell '50 Ford PU, Revell '55 Chevy street rod, or Revell '62 Corvette, those wheel rims ~might~ just work.
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Post by krassandbernie on Apr 15, 2020 13:55:54 GMT -5
A deep chrome-reverse wheel that fits the'41 Lincoln is going to be difficult to find. The AMT '51 Chevy hardtop has deep chrome reverse wheels that are similar to, but deeper than the AMT '36 wheels. Problem is, they're AMT, and will be floating in the center of those big 41 Lincoln tires. My suggestion? A Revell Beatnik bandit or Revell '49 Mercury chrome reverse wheel, with an added "sleeve" made from a larger-diameter wheel. I just dug through the stash; I think it might be possible to slice the back rim off of a later-model wheel and fit it to the '41 Lincoln tire. If you have a Revell '41 Chevy PU, Revell '50 Ford PU, Revell '55 Chevy street rod, or Revell '62 Corvette, those wheel rims ~might~ just work. What about looking at the newer Revell Merc's chrome reverse wheels? I haven't...but the thought just crossed my mind. Revell makes all of their stuff a bit out of scale compared to the AMT kits....when it comes to wheels......lately.....well, sometimes! LOL! Now, if you are trying to duplicate the 1:1 blue deuce coupe pictured above in a previous post these deep dish steel wheels that I mastered will get you about as close as possible with what I have to offer..........AND they will fit the newer AMT parts pack wide white wall pie crust slicks. These wheels were made by combining the center of a Johan deep dish steel wheel from the '64 Dodge kit (with the slots opened up) with the outer rim from the rare Aurora parts pack chrome reverse wheel.
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Post by spex84 on Apr 15, 2020 17:52:45 GMT -5
If you switch to the AMT M&H slicks, there are a lot more wheels that will fit, including Ed's offering above!
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Post by chepp on Apr 15, 2020 22:00:24 GMT -5
It's great to see so much interest and with good suggestions, too. Here are Beatnik Bandit wheels. The mag is on a 1/25 AMT M&H Racemaster 10.50 x 15 slick while the open wheel is "floating" in a 1/24 Monogram 1941 Lincoln tire. I'm not so keen on the Lincoln tire now that I'm looking at it. Originally I had included it sight unseen because of some online comments that it would be good to go with the raised fender lip on another car. It doesn't have sidewall lettering and is too skinny so it's out. I can add cheater grooves to AMT slicks.
Ed, thanks for the pix of your resin wheels but the rims on these look thicker than I would like. I do like the green coupe that you posted. It has the "ready to go" look that I want. I would make mine even more minimalist with a smooth trunk lid, no fenders, no Moon tank and a stock firewall. The black tuck-n-roll interior looks good — I'll go with that color and not care that few will see much of it on the completed model. I also like the paint color on the light blue car. That car's interior and other details look too "fancy" for this project but they do look good.
Without putting the resin body on the '29s "'32" frame I'll presume you guys are right. So would the frame from the Revell 85-4228 1932 Ford 5-Window Coupe fit? I'm not too keen on it because I'll have no interest in the 302 engine, the 5-window body and the non-TRAKable "street rod" parts.
I'm not in any hurry to get started but at least I'm getting the parts together.
Thanks again for your comments.
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Post by Bernard Kron on Apr 15, 2020 23:13:18 GMT -5
Without putting the resin body on the '29s "'32" frame I'll presume you guys are right. So would the frame from the Revell 85-4228 1932 Ford 5-Window Coupe fit? I'm not too keen on it because I'll have no interest in the 302 engine, the 5-window body and the non-TRAKable "street rod" parts. That frame will fit perfectly. Speaking from my own experience, I suspect you won't regret parting out this kit. The little Ford V8 "comes along for the ride" in all the Revell 1/25th Deuce kits. I've made a minor art out of tarting them up for various builds, but if you discard them it's no big loss as long as you acquire the kit at a reasonable price. The hairpins are the key part in this kit along with the louvered deck. The "hemi" is *MEH* in IMHO but I must say the 5-window body responds well to a hard chop, either that or stock height and full fendered for a stock build (although if you pinch the frame then you've got an issue, there...). All of which is to say that parts kits are an evil addiction.
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Post by chepp on Apr 24, 2020 17:10:26 GMT -5
Thanks again for all the good ideas. My Drag City Casting order just arrived — those parts look even better in person than in the photos. The resin body fits just fine on the frame from the Revell '32 5-window kit.
Here's my latest plan.
After de-chroming and assembling some of the engine parts I was stumped by the bellhousing and trans. The kit has no provision for a clutch and it only has one shifter rod. Eventually I discovered through online searching that the unfamiliar-looking trans is a drag-modified GM Hydra Matic. There were a couple of companies modifying them but I'll claim that this one is a B&M Hydro Stick.
The gold engine color is traditional but I get the sense that it's been overdone lately (sort of like red painted steel wheels). Still, I'll keep it. The 1952 Cadillac brochure has an illustration of a gold one for the brand's 50th anniversary (but a small engine pic near the specs is in the actual blue color). Here's one with four carbs.
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Post by RodBurNeR on Apr 24, 2020 21:14:26 GMT -5
heck yeah keep it coming!
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Post by Dennis on Apr 24, 2020 21:48:19 GMT -5
Your revised plan sounds pretty solid. Many years ago I built a channeled Revell 3-Window with that parts pack Caddy except that I replace the Hydro Stick trans with the 4-speed box from their parts pack 427 Ford big block. That motor is a great fit to these kits. This was my second finished model after returning to the hobby back in ‘08.
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