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Post by Jared on May 7, 2020 0:02:52 GMT -5
HEY EVERYONE! SO I've been apart of this group for some time. pretty close to the start really. I've been off and on here with only one intro post. I'm hoping that changes today! just moved from Denver, CO to Huntsville, AL. finally have a dedicated bench AND room for building and hobbies. still trying to locate or buy the rest of my tools that have wondered off, but I figured I would get something out and start messing with plastic. Picked this up with two other shoebox fords as a rebuilders lot. Shoebox fords are in my top 5 favorite car. This one is a bit rough, but I'll see what I can do to save it and make something cool! I was only able to get 90% of it apart for now, but I can at least start moving on stripping paint and cleaning it up. ENJOY!     |
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Post by Mr. Metallic on May 7, 2020 6:49:27 GMT -5
Hello Jared. Thanks for sharing
I dig the "Callidac" engine
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Post by cturner on May 7, 2020 7:22:00 GMT -5
Sooo Jared...what are you using to separate the parts? Like getting the glue to "let go"? I have an old one I would love t get apart and it's fighting me every step of the way...
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Post by skip on May 7, 2020 8:00:21 GMT -5
Wonder if that was a "kid built" with some adult help, it doesn't look like a total glue bomb though. The upside-down Cadillac valve covers or as Craig says "Callidac" valve covers kind of lead me to believe that it was assembled by a younger person. Still, it's a fairly clean build.
Before prying on that glass. Try the "water in the freezer" technique we've all heard about, but most of us haven't tried. See if it really works! If you try it, just fill up the upside-down top with about an eighth inch or whatever it to fill hold with water. This looks like about the only application of water freezing that I can see working. It's worth a try before busting a probably brittle clear plastic section all together. (If you do, let us know how it works.)
I'll be watching your interpretation as it comes along. Thankfully you're starting off with a clean enough build that repair work won't be a major phase of construction. So you'll get to the "Good Stuff" quicker!
You're right, I have a soft spot for '49 thru '51 Fords too. They're like a total blank palette, you can do a lot with them and they seem to look good with most of the tasteful custom modifications.
Even some of the "George Barris Junk" works in it's own way. I'm not a big Barris fan, I do like some of the earlier work, but almost none of the later stuff his shop churned out. I think the Quad Headlight treatment that came with the '49 Ford & '50 Convertible is one that for me, doesn't work. It made the front look too heavy in my opinion, I'd only add those parts if building a box top build.
I do wish that the latest reissue of the '50 Convertible had the '51 Victoria Hardtop, or that I would have bought one when Modlehause had them for sale. Come to think of it there's a whole lot of stuff that if I'd had the money at the time that I would have picked up from Don and Carol. Maybe Mr. Fluck could add that one to his ever growing "To Do List". Glad to see that Ed's Resin stuff has re-emerged from how slow he was a while back. We need to support every good resin caster remaining, Ed's one of the bestest! (Shameless Plug for Mr. Drag City Casting his-self!)
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Post by chepp on May 7, 2020 9:30:47 GMT -5
Welcome back to building. The "Fordillac" was a '50s thing -- perfect for TRAK.
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Post by spex84 on May 7, 2020 11:28:05 GMT -5
Neato! She's a bit rough eh? I'm looking forward to seeing this '49 get saved  Welcome back! |
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Post by FordRodnKustom on May 7, 2020 16:41:06 GMT -5
Welcome back to the forum Jared! Looks like you're off to a good start on this project. Should be fun to watch this one come together. Just can't go wrong with a shoe box Ford!
Also welcome to the South East. I'm in N.W Florida sometimes known as LA...lower Alabama and/or the "Redneck Riviera" LOL.
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1949 Ford
May 7, 2020 16:56:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lo51merc on May 7, 2020 16:56:25 GMT -5
I'll bet that getting out the "glass" is or was, the hardest part. Keep at it. You've got me thinkin' about starting one of my own, with a chop for sure.
Gary
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Post by modelcrazed on May 7, 2020 19:39:33 GMT -5
ip to get old glue joints to loosen. cheap mineral spirits. small hobby paint brush or q-tip flow onto the joint do not use a lot just get the joint wet let it work for a while and slowly begin to wiggle and put pressure on the joint. for me it works most of the time have even completely disassembled buildup engines down to separating the block itself.
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Post by cturner on May 7, 2020 21:02:50 GMT -5
ip  hmmm..is that a new technology? lol or...i pee to get old glue joints to loosen? (sorrieeee..I don't know WHAT came over me tonite) Mineral spirits can b gotten where? |
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Post by Jared on May 7, 2020 22:20:08 GMT -5
ip hmmm..is that a new technology? lol or...i pee to get old glue joints to loosen? (sorrieeee..I don't know WHAT came over me tonite) Mineral spirits can b gotten where? I think he was meaning IPA maybe? I know Isopropyl can be used for stripping paint in the 99% form. not sure about breaking down old glue. I haven't messed with the glass yet. For that very reason. I'm not sure how to best tackle it. Its one of the few joints that is glued VERY well. Figures!! Since I wanted to search that issue and ponder it, I figured I would jump onto cleaning up the chassis and getting the rear height mapped out. The front has holes for the metal through axle. That will be going away for sure. But it helps for setting ride height for sure! Also playing with the idea of dropping a flathead back into it as i have a few spare 21 stud engines. it would get hop-up parts in the end. Heres a few pics of small progress. I'll try not to over load this thread with TONS of pics......      |
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Post by Duane on May 8, 2020 0:11:25 GMT -5
welcome back Jared ! the '49-'51 Fords,are some of my favorite cars,
so built that puppy ! i love in progress shots, so please post a bunch !
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Post by skip on May 8, 2020 9:10:50 GMT -5
ip hmmm..is that a new technology? lol or...i pee to get old glue joints to loosen? (sorrieeee..I don't know WHAT came over me tonite) Mineral spirits can b gotten where? Not sure what the chemical make up of your pee is, and I don't want to either! I know Mineral Spirits are regular old non-turpentine paint thinner. My "Pro Art - Odorless Thinner" says on the back of the container; "CONTAINS: 100% Odorless Mineral Spirits". If you're using it just for debonding ancient model cement, then the cheaper no name brands will probably work just as good. I think that Walmart carries the Pro Art brand in their expansive Arts and Crafts section. They're open while everything is closed down local to me. I know Hobby Lobby carries it, but they are closed. Also works with nearly every enamel based paint I've ever used, including Testers, Humbrol and any of the other common hobby enamel paint brands. I've used the Pro Art brand for years doing Sign Painting and Pinstriping work for years using it with One Shot and other enamels. It's super clean, never had it not allow the enamel to set like some other brands have. |
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Post by modelcrazed on May 8, 2020 9:23:31 GMT -5
sorry gang it was supposed to be TIP I missed a key while typing. maybe p would work. LOL!
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1949 Ford
May 8, 2020 10:39:26 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Jared on May 8, 2020 10:39:26 GMT -5
ip hmmm..is that a new technology? lol or...i pee to get old glue joints to loosen? (sorrieeee..I don't know WHAT came over me tonite) Mineral spirits can b gotten where? Not sure what the chemical make up of your pee is, and I don't want to either! I know Mineral Spirits are regular old non-turpentine paint thinner. My "Pro Art - Odorless Thinner" says on the back of the container; "CONTAINS: 100% Odorless Mineral Spirits". If you're using it just for debonding ancient model cement, then the cheaper no name brands will probably work just as good. I think that Walmart carries the Pro Art brand in their expansive Arts and Crafts section. They're open while everything is closed down local to me. I know Hobby Lobby carries it, but they are closed. Also works with nearly every enamel based paint I've ever used, including Testers, Humbrol and any of the other common hobby enamel paint brands. I've used the Pro Art brand for years doing Sign Painting and Pinstriping work for years using it with One Shot and other enamels. It's super clean, never had it not allow the enamel to set like some other brands have. So you have used it for de bonding glue and stripping old paint? That would be awesome if I could bang out both operations in one dunk of the body! I was going to go pick up some super clean and hope that it helped the glue and also not ruin the glass. |
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hmmm..is that a new technology? lol or...i pee to get old glue joints to loosen? (sorrieeee..I don't know WHAT came over me tonite) Mineral spirits can b gotten where? 
