In the beginning of my model career i used brake fluid for paint stripper, messy and nasty, last 15 years i´ve used owen cleaner or som kitchen power spray", simple easy and much more nice dealing with, just spray the part and put it in a ziplock bag wait over night and simply flush the paint of under the tap, But try some trash parts before so you don´t ruin some nice stuff. Not sure if it works on old glue.
Not sure what the chemical make up of your pee is, and I don't want to either! I know Mineral Spirits are regular old non-turpentine paint thinner. My "Pro Art - Odorless Thinner" says on the back of the container; "CONTAINS: 100% Odorless Mineral Spirits". If you're using it just for debonding ancient model cement, then the cheaper no name brands will probably work just as good.
I think that Walmart carries the Pro Art brand in their expansive Arts and Crafts section. They're open while everything is closed down local to me. I know Hobby Lobby carries it, but they are closed.
Also works with nearly every enamel based paint I've ever used, including Testers, Humbrol and any of the other common hobby enamel paint brands. I've used the Pro Art brand for years doing Sign Painting and Pinstriping work for years using it with One Shot and other enamels. It's super clean, never had it not allow the enamel to set like some other brands have.
So you have used it for de bonding glue and stripping old paint? That would be awesome if I could bang out both operations in one dunk of the body! I was going to go pick up some super clean and hope that it helped the glue and also not ruin the glass.
Actually, no I have not used mineral spirits to debond model cement, or use it to strip paint. My comment was that: 1. Mineral Spirits are Non-Turpentine Paint Thinner. 2. I have used mineral spirits as a thinner for nearly every enamel based paint I've ever come across. I use it all the time doing sign work and pinstriping to thin the enamel paint.
Third comment, not sure how Mineral Spirits will attack styrene. Being in the same family of solvents used in enamel paints that have been directly applied to plastic styrene models since I became involved in modeling in the early 60's. It's the tamest solvent or thinner I use on models, has nothing to do with any hot thinners like lacquer thinner.
In fact, I normally wipe down the bare plastic model with a mineral spirit soaked rag prior to using a tack cloth before painting with any type of paint. I've done that for as long as I can remember, never experienced any harm to styrene plastic.
Now if you're talking lacquer thinner, nope never wipe that on bare plastic, it'll probably stick whatever rag to the surface you were trying to clean! It's that hot.
I've also Pinstriped and Lettered on some pretty priceless, irreplaceable celluloid, early plastics and styrene plastics and never experienced any sort of detrimental effects to the plastics.
About 30+ years back the go to paint removers were things like Cox Nitromethane Airplane Fuels, White Gas, Brake Fluid, Oven Cleaner, Solvent (mineral spirit based like is used in most garages). The Cox Model Airplane fuel goes back to very early 60's I've seen it in print in some of the early Model Car & Science, Car Models and Don Emmons used to recommend its use in Rod & Custom when they had a big model car section.
Bottom line, if you're the least bit concerned with any solvent used on styrene plastics, test it out on either a scrap piece or on a piece of sprue. If it doesn't attack the plastic then you're good to go!
Sorry this, post got really long but the B.$. needed addressed on mineral spirits harming plastic. I prefer to use personal experience rather than what I've heard someone else say.
lots got done, but doesn't show as this point. Picked up some "super clean" and was able to get the body stripped and parts stripped nicely. At this point I was able to see the areas that need to fixing or attention a lot better. I always forget how bad the molding is on these old AMT kits. you can see it badly in the seat as I cleaned up one half and left the other side for the photo.
While the interior tub was still soaking in the super clean, I started working on getting the hood to actually close all the way. After that I started getting the gaps a little better. You can see where its tight at the "roll over" point towards the front. They still need some final sanding, but its close for now.
I'm waiting on wheels/tires to come in, so I'm off chassis for now for the most part. I may start looking at getting mounts made up for fitting the flathead.
Since the suspension side of things is on hold, I wanted to get so more done on the body. So it was time to fill holes, smooth mold lines and start Frenching the headlights. Don't really want to get too crazy on the front end yet either as the core support/radiator have some major glue issues I'm not sure how to solve yet. Side note, I was able to get the glass out...….eerrr sort of. It came in two halves. Front and back. Front will get a polish and be ready to go back in. The rear didn't survive and has a crack in it. I may get some clear sheets and just make some new glass all around anyway.
Not an massive progress. just lots of cleaning up and getting things to fit/work like this should. Got my wheels in today and needed to get them on so I could double check the stance and ride height. Not totally sure if I'm in love with it or not. whats everyones thoughts on it.