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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Oct 20, 2021 13:40:38 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Oct 21, 2021 7:01:37 GMT -5
I don't see why it wouldn't be ok, but I'm not an expert on vintage drag equipment. I would say share away and if it steers into un-TRaK-able territory I'm sure someone will let you know.
Thanks for sharing, and asking
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Post by skip on Oct 21, 2021 7:57:07 GMT -5
Look up the thread New Gasser Wars, it details out the NHRA Gasser class structuring, legal modifications etc. Since TRAK is pretty much a historically based build system that will help you to avert the Neo-Gasser and Faux-Gasser "look" that is prevalent on many of the other forums where anything jacked up into the "Street Freak Zone" is a gasser. Not! If you look up the class rules, there is a specific formula followed. Including a ride height of 24 inches from the center of the crank shaft pulley bolt, i.e. center of the crankshaft. (That knocks out a few on the other boards...) New Gasser Wars thread link is below - New - GASSER WARS - Finish It / Build it - Fun Challenge - trakinscale.proboards.com/thread/19348/gasser-wars-finish-build-challengeTo answer your question: Build It, Post It, It Fits! |
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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Oct 21, 2021 11:30:15 GMT -5
Thanks Craig and Skip. I am using the 1965 NHRA rule book as my guide. Pretty sure the crank height will be OK. Working on engine set back right now. Can't go too far back (11" per the rules) but right now the blower pulley hits the front frame crossmember. I am in the process of selling off some household goods in preparation of a move so I won't start the build post just yet. Just wanted to be sure that it was OK. And thank you for the Gasser Wars link.
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Post by 41chevy on Oct 22, 2021 12:21:09 GMT -5
Looks fine. One general rule of thumb in tech was used for the crank to ground distance that seemed to work well 99% of the time. The wheel hubs were not be lower the bottom of the rocker panel. Generally that covered the crank to ground spec. We did that because we had a few cheaters who modified the front motor mounts to be lower, hence more front axle height. One thing we did to push the street equipment rule about having a generator / alternator was to run the field wire to a 1963 /1964 or later Cadillac electric kick down switch. At full throttle the kick down switch would open and the field would collapse so basically the unit would free wheel. No parasitic drag from the unit freeing up a bit of H.P. When below WOT the unit worked normally. Paul |
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Post by Dave from Pleasanton on Oct 23, 2021 23:42:57 GMT -5
Paul, thanks for the info. Since the engine from the Revell kit has an alternator, I'm sure mine has the Cadillac kick-down switch. :-)
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Post by 41chevy on Oct 24, 2021 11:29:15 GMT -5
Paul, thanks for the info. Since the engine from the Revell kit has an alternator, I'm sure mine has the Cadillac kick-down switch. :-) The switch was on all the AC equipped BPO and Cads. GM designed it to shut off power the AC clutch when you kicked down into passing gear. We put them on gen or alt systems to collapse the fields and not once did anyone ever look at is and ask what it was. Even ran one on my I/G bug. |
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