Revell 36 Ford....05/13/2020 final update... Jan 17, 2016 17:32:35 GMT -5
Post by Mark Moore on Jan 17, 2016 17:32:35 GMT -5
Jan 15, 2016 10:42:57 GMT -5 @dogfish7 said:Nice tip. My MMD Green and White Putty's are getting hard to even squeeze out of the tube.
Those one part green & white putties like that are merely just thickened lacquer primer & dry through evaporation, meaning that they shrink as they dry, so months & years after using them for custom work can show sink marks. They are totally useless except for filling shallow scratches & certainly aren't suitable for major bodywork. Two part putties like Steve recommends cure through a chemical reaction, which doesn'r shrink.
The Evercoat Glaze Coat Steve uses is great stuff, but having worked in the auto body trades for many years in the past, (& having a diploma in auto body repair & paint), I can say that they are very expensive for use only on models, & usually dry up/go bad long before an entire container can be used up for such things.
For modelers however, there is a less wasteful & cheaper alternative, that works just as well. Here it is:
It's the Bondo Professional Glazing & Spot Putty, as seen on the big tube, & rubs about $7/$8 & come with a tube of putty & a tube of hardener. Mix the two & go. The package it comes in also has "Professional" on it.
The regular Bondo one part spot/glazing putty doesn't have "Professional" on it & like all one part putties will shrink over time.
Now, there is nothing wrong with Evercoat, they make great products & when i worked both as a body man/painter for Freightliner & in body shops, that was what they all used. But for the cost & limited shelf life for us modelers, the Bondo I recommend is just as good. It sands well, feathers nicely & works just as well as the Evercoat does. It's recommended that it be used mainly on primed surfaces, but I've found it adheres to bare plastic as well as it does primed surfaces.