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Post by spex84 on Mar 18, 2019 10:22:07 GMT -5
I think part of the problem is the fit of the floorpan and frame to body...but I'll have to pull my kit out again and see if I can figure it out.
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 18, 2019 10:54:32 GMT -5
I think I may know what the issue is. If I'm right, it would explain my dilemma. I noticed when I tore it back apart that this particular setup on the rearend is very pinion angle sensitive. The least change in the angle, moves the placement of the wheels dramatically. That could explain why moving the cross member back 3mms caused the opposite problem. So, I'm thinking that that's what I did wrong. I didn't have the pinion angle right in my mockup. Hard to believe the pinion angle would change it that much. But, it does. The angle of the springs/cross member could also be a factor.
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 22, 2019 15:52:29 GMT -5
OK guys, I gotta question about the '40. Would it be possible to delete the splash aprons up front on the actual car? Or are they needed to bolt the fenders to? The reason I'm asking is that I plan on using the Nailhead headers and I'm going to allow them to exit through the rear of the fenders. I mangled the right side apron getting it out and don't think I can fix it to where it would be suitable to use. It would also solve other issues if I could leave them out. But, if they're necessary, I'll have to figure something out. As far as progress, I have the frame in paint, door panels, floor pan, interior pan, seat, running boards and firewall in primer. I also have the wheels and tires nailed down. I'm using the Torque Thrusts and tires from a Revell '32. I think they'll stick. Maybe. When I get some more stuff in paint, I'll post photos.
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Post by Dennis on Mar 22, 2019 20:38:48 GMT -5
On the full size car they don’t really support the fender. They bolt across the tops of the fenders and sit against the sides of the frame rails with rubber bumpers to keep from rattling. It’s totally feasible they could be removed or severely cut for headers.
I have an all stock 40 Convertible in the shop right now that I literally just pulled all the front sheet metal off of 2 days ago. Body is next!
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 23, 2019 8:29:51 GMT -5
Thanx Dennis! I knew they were separate pieces. But, I didn't know if they provided any structure. I don't think I'll leave them out completely. I may make a new set or try to get another set and hog them out for the headers.
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Post by Dennis on Mar 23, 2019 11:13:35 GMT -5
If you need a pair of those inner panels I can spare a pair. Lemme know.
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 23, 2019 15:51:17 GMT -5
Thanx Dennis! If I decide I need them, I'll get up with you. I need to do a mockup with everything in place and see how much room is needed for the headers. I'm hoping I can put most or part of them back in. Waiting on primer and paint to dry at the moment.
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 24, 2019 12:00:32 GMT -5
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Post by spex84 on Mar 24, 2019 12:07:10 GMT -5
I'm super impressed at how you managed to get the headers to A: fit in the engine bay and B: protrude from the fenders in just the right place. Never would have guessed that would actually work, considering how dependent it is on everything having juuust the right alignment. Did you cut the headers in two, so the dumps can be installed from the outside? That's what I would have done, so I could fudge the alignment. Looking good!
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Post by afx on Mar 24, 2019 12:47:47 GMT -5
I 2nd your wheel/tire choice Roger. This is a great build.
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Post by Ranchwagon on Mar 24, 2019 18:50:33 GMT -5
Looking good! I like the wheels/tires, too.
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Post by scalespeedshop on Mar 24, 2019 20:13:10 GMT -5
The headers look great. Stance is just right, can't wait to see it in paint.
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Post by Mr. Metallic on Mar 25, 2019 7:36:09 GMT -5
That second set of wheels and tires and the stance is kick-ass
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 25, 2019 13:56:29 GMT -5
Thanx guys, I appreciate the comments!
Chris, I did separate the turn outs from the headers. I cut them just in front of the collector flanges. I figured I would have to modify the headers. But, I won't have to. I can stick the turn outs into the holes in the body from the inside and once I get the body mounted to the chassis, I can simply glue the headers back to them. It will actually pull them back in a little which makes them look better IMO. That'll never happen again! At least I caught one break on this project!
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Post by Plowboy on Mar 30, 2019 10:55:32 GMT -5
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