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Post by david on Apr 11, 2013 10:42:33 GMT -5
very nice job on the chassis  |
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Post by Gluhead on Apr 17, 2013 14:17:24 GMT -5
Nice start...and that intake is killer. I agree on the taller stance. Should be some decent images of an adapter on the hamb, but they did basically what you're trying to do...mate one shape and bolt pattern up to another...do that for your specific parts and it should be close enough considering where it goes and how much exposure it'll have.
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Post by Gluhead on Apr 17, 2013 14:33:27 GMT -5
Okay, I'm a dork. I completely missed page 2. Still, nice work. I've run into the same problem with improperly mixed resin. I've got several pieces here that are still fully flexi after several months. |
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Post by spex84 on Jul 21, 2014 1:52:11 GMT -5
So I'm trying to resurrect a couple builds that have been sitting around in boxes for way too long. This one was stalled because I couldn't decide on a bunch of details, including color. It had a '31 front axle which was too wide, along with a spring-behind setup. Ditched that and switched it to an extra-dropped '37 piece I modified a while back for a different (now abandoned) project, and installed '31 spring hangars and spring made from metal and styrene sheet. The benefit is the new axle is narrower and the wheels sit more solidly in place (less wobble). I like the old scratchbuilt wishbones, but they didn't fit on the new axle, so I made some new ones out of '31 radius rods with scratchbuilt 30s-style rod ends. The rearend was bugging me...it wasn't centered, and seemed like a waste of the '30 crossmember, so now it has a quickchange from the Double Dragster ( I think) and axle housings from the Tweedy Pie re-issue. So that pretty much brings it up to date  Two steps forward, one and a half steps back!  |
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Post by Bryce on Jul 21, 2014 6:28:26 GMT -5
Love this build. Can't wait to see it finished.
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Post by Bernard Kron on Jul 21, 2014 14:50:07 GMT -5
All those cool 3-D computer images you showed us a couple of years back are coming to life in styrene here. Very exciting!
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Post by robtrat on Jul 21, 2014 20:50:42 GMT -5
Nice work there Chris. About that two steps forward, one and a half steps back thing, refresh my memory, is that the Rhumba or the Merengue?
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Post by southpier on Jul 22, 2014 5:36:21 GMT -5
lateral progress still counts!
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Post by Dennis on Jul 23, 2014 0:01:40 GMT -5
The suspension rework and resulting look of the car look really nice. Sometimes the best approach to a project is to shelve it for a while then out of nowhere, a great idea will pop into your head, either to rework a part that you just weren't feeling or simply how to proceed when it wasn't quite clear before.
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Post by spex84 on Jul 23, 2014 1:12:59 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Tonight I started chopping down the windshield frame (oddly, it's a couple millimeters too wide, as well as needing a chop), made some mounts for the split 'bones, put a locator tab on the front spring so it fits into the notch in the crossmember, and built a trans crossmember. Lots of little things are still giving me trouble, but it feels like it's over the hump now...like it might actually end up finished After all that work combining Lincoln and Ford wheels for the rear, I'm feeling partial to wheels with a small chrome cap in the center...like '34 wires and '37 artillery wheels. I'm also trying to figure out how to make removeable hood sides that fit around the hemi valve covers. Paint-wise, I'm still torn. But I know I want it to be sinister...thinking maybe bare metal or greasy grey body with black frame,wheels grille, hood, and headlights. |
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Post by spex84 on Sept 22, 2014 18:30:52 GMT -5
Nothing monumental to report here, but progress ticks slowly onward. Re-scribed the door cut lines through the new beltline molding, and re-drilled the door handle holes. I'll be using the better handles from the '30 Phaeton. Some bodywork here and there, including trying to fix the voids where the kit windshield corners and cowl meet. Windshield frame chopped, firewall drilled for rad supports and fuel blocks. Fuel blocks made from styrene rod and short pieces of syringe. Also made some stock-like beads to detail the rear wheel wells, even though they won't really be visible in the final build. At this point the build has been on the bench SO long, I'm looking at how the tuck n' roll interior is kind of wasted, thinking maybe I need to open the doors and build hinges out of brass. Oh brother. Maybe on the next build   |
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Post by Gluhead on Sept 23, 2014 16:16:56 GMT -5
Oh! Happy to see this one back on the screen. I'd missed the last round of updates. It's looking really damn good, Chris.
I try to not let having to stick projects back on the shelf bother me too much. It always kinda blows my mind to watch builders who are able to start a project and follow through with it straight on to the finish, like there's nothing to it. I was like that with work projects, where I almost always had everything that I needed to do my job, but with modeling it's hardly ever like that. lol
In any case, I hope you're able to take a good bite out of it this time so I get to watch...because what you have so far is really damned neat.
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Post by Dennis on Sept 26, 2014 9:14:57 GMT -5
I have several models where the interior details are nearly lost because of a chopped top. The way i figure it? I know it's there.
This is such a killer A-coupe. The wheel well detail looks good!
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Post by spex84 on Sept 27, 2014 1:13:15 GMT -5
Any paint suggestions?? It's frickin' killing me. Part of the reason this build has lingered is I want to build 5 model As, but only have time for one! I've considered: -black (all the work I did will disappear, the blemishes might stand out) -bare metal (leaning towards this) -black patina -red-grey patina -gloss grey with black frame, headlights and grille -bare metal body with black frame and grille,silver block with black valve covers (as per stock desoto hemi) -gold body and frame...kind of a harvest gold if I can find something like that -grey with gold wheels and gold valve covers -gloss brown with black frame and grille -metallic bronze -light grey with black frame and grille, bronze block, black valve covers -all gloss black with bronze block and wheels -and I also have some chrome valve covers from the Lil Coffin, so adding chrome covers to the mix could change the look again! I have done photoshop mockups of some of these, but man...I seem to change my mind every time I look at it! Right now the bare metal body with black grille/frame is in the lead, but I'm liking the idea of getting some bronze or gold color into the engine bay, but that might be introducing too many different colors. Big inspirations are the Chris Casny and Mark Ford coupes:   Also these cars:    And the Tom Branch roadster's color:  |
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Post by Gluhead on Sept 27, 2014 4:07:41 GMT -5
Chris, any way you go is going to look killer. How about you start with one that covers fairly easy? I didn't notice if you did this, but if you have your final details and items that attach to the body set up to pin together, why not take advantage of that and progress it through a few stages? Treat it like so many real cars, and go for bare metal for a while, then pull it apart a bit and prime it. Leave it that way a while then paint it one of your lighter prefs. Later yet maroon, then black. lol. Nothing saying you can't...most of your initial paint jobs wouldn't be all that thick anyway, so it's not like you'd need to strip every time to avoid the buildup.
I dunno. It's a really neat build, I just think it'd be neat to treat it like a 1:1. Which, btw I've decided I'm going to run my Ford bare for a while, once spring comes back around. At least for the summer. Going to Gibbs it (Dennis, if you see failure coming my way, I expect a mail! Ha!).
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Nov 17, 2024 17:50:56 GMT -5
Nov 17, 2024 17:50:56 GMT -5