32 Chopped Sedan - vintage wheels

[superflekmoonbird]

Think I'm going to have to pause and take a closer look at the suspension mounting issue.
I was thinking leaf springs would be more period correct, but they seem to be holding the rear of the body shell/fender wells too high above the rear wheels, and the front higher than I'd like as well.

I'd also like the front lower in relation to the rear, to get the rake in the stance I'd like to see.I could take some of the leaves out of the spring...that was a period correct lowering technique according to Al Drakes book

.

I'm not sure coils are appropriate as a replacement to leaf springs.

Like to avoid channeling the body over the frame to get there, as the interior tub fit is a big hassle as it is.
I might be able to cut some of the rear interior floor board over the Halibrand rear axle to get there.

[Mr. Metallic]

Jan 4, 2021 14:47:39 GMT -5 superflekmoonbird said:

Think I'm going to have to pause and take a closer look at the suspension mounting issue.
I was thinking leaf springs would be more period correct, but they seem to be holding the rear of the body shell/fender wells too high above the rear wheels, and the front higher than I'd like as well.

I'd also like the front lower in relation to the rear, to get the rake in the stance I'd like to see.I could take some of the leaves out of the spring...that was a period correct lowering technique according to Al Drakes book

I don't see any pics or description of the parts you're trying to use. please don't abandon the leaf springs just yet

The stance on the one with the wires is awesome, so I'll focus on that. Looks to me like they used a front axle with a pretty heavy drop on it. And the rear looks like the frame has been z'd to tuck it up inside the rear of the body while still using a heavily arched spring to clear the quick change. If it wasn't z'd, it has definitely been shortened, otherwise the rear frame horns would be protruding out the back.

Like I said, we don't know what you're using, but if it's the stock Revell tube axle up front you can lower it a couple scale inches with a simple trim to the mounting points of the spring and removing some material on the underside of the crossmember.

If you need any more help please ask. But you've got a tasty formula ogin here, let us help you bring it to the table, without coil-overs

[cturner]

If this last post from Craig S IS the model and how it sits....LEAVE THE STANCE ALONE! It's perfect! (just my opinion)

[superflekmoonbird]

Here are the parts I'm currently using.

R&M Halibrand rear axle
Revell 29 PU dropped front axle.
Both have been modified to accept the PE wire wheels.

The floorboards of the stock kit are not channeled to allow the body shell to sit lower...I did mark a channel in the rear floorboard to cut out and allow the cross member to sit higher up in the body shell...making kind of a channel to lower the rear of the body shell on the kit frame.
I cut off the fuel tank in the back...maybe I'll reinstall it...some of the pictures show no tank.

Now looking at the 29 kit front dropped axle and leaf spring.
The kit attachment point for the front axle with it's leaf spring doesn't allow enough drop of the front to get the stance I'm aiming for.

So, I'm now looking at a location slightly behind the radiator grill shell to allow more of a dropped effect , lowering the front some more using the leaf spring (last picture).

[superflekmoonbird]

Late last night I trial fitted the parts after channeling the rear floor board...here's what I have w/o changing the front leaf spring axle yet...

[Mr. Metallic]

Jan 5, 2021 12:08:05 GMT -5 Mr. Metallic said:

A simple fix would be to cut the spring off and mount it behind the axle, instead of on top. You will gain a significant drop if you do that. Drill a small hole on each end of the spring for a sewing pin to slide through and then drill corresponding holes in the axle for those pins to go into. This creates a pretty strong mounting point. If you want to get fancy you could drill a hole in the end of your hairpin or split wishbone to act as the point, insert the pin there, and then slide the spring on and then the axle. makes for a very tidy and strong assembly.

[superflekmoonbird]

Ok..I'll take a look at that.
Researching roadsters and checking out how it was done back in the day.....from Robert Genat's "Vintage and Historic Drag Racers"

[Mr. Metallic]

Jan 5, 2021 12:10:58 GMT -5 superflekmoonbird said:

Ok..I'll take a look at that.

Here's the best pic of one of my projects i could find to illustrate what i mean

[superflekmoonbird]

Thanks...looks like a good way to do it.

[spex84]

If you want some 1:1 illustrations of that front-end solution (known as "spring-behind" front suspension), look for the "Doane Spencer Roadster" or "Rolling Bones style" front suspension.
There are some good shots here:
www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rolling-bones-front-suspension.505979/



When I was trying to get the nose of my scale '30 coupe project down, I ended up doing a few things, including a spring-behind setup in which the spring attaches to pins on the inside of the wishbone mounts on the axle, a scratchbuilt metal spring (thinner than the plastic version could ever be, but still strong), and scratchbuilt dropped axle ends.

The downside of spring-behind/bobbed front frame rails in 1:1 is if one of the pins holding the spring perch to the wishbone snaps, there's nothing to stop the nose of the car dropping to the ground on that side. Some cars will have a little projection welded onto the frame rails to "catch" the axle in case of spring perch failure (as seen in the photo above, unless that's a radiator mount of some sort?).

I recall reading on the HAMB about a car that suffered such a failure...luckily in 1/25 plastic we don't have to worry!

[Dennis]

Jan 5, 2021 22:05:20 GMT -5 spex84 said:

The downside of spring-behind/bobbed front frame rails in 1:1 is if one of the pins holding the spring perch to the wishbone snaps, there's nothing to stop the nose of the car dropping to the ground on that side. Some cars will have a little projection welded onto the frame rails to "catch" the axle in case of spring perch failure (as seen in the photo above, unless that's a radiator mount of some sort?).

I recall reading on the HAMB about a car that suffered such a failure...luckily in 1/25 plastic we don't have to worry!

Those projections are radiator mounts. The failure on that particular car was a combination of bad engineering and shitty Chinese parts. Mostly bad engineering. The young guy who built that car wasn't as good as he thought he was...

But, like you said, Craig, we're only building models!

[superflekmoonbird]

I dug up a leaf spring and modified it - taking a cue from you guys to mount it behind the dropped front axle to give some additional drop on the front end.

I channeled the rear floorboard to lower the rear body shell a bit more over the rear axle.

I taped up the components for a test fit...I think I got something I can go with.

Thank you mrmetallic

[Mr. Metallic]

Damn, that looks really good. I find the amount of real estate between the top of the rear opening and the top of the tire quite pleasing. And the front drop is perfect.

One concern I do have up front, and maybe you already plan on addressing it. It appears the spring is above the frame rails and the axle is below. if that's the case the suspension travel would be very limited and would end up hitting the frame every time you hit a bump. Easiest way to relieve that would be to C-notch the frame below the spring and above the axle. In the real world it would make the frame weak in that area, but it could work on a model.

Please don't get discouraged, this is really shaping up nicely

Maybe someone with more real world experience can give you better guidance. Dennis?

[Dennis]

New stance looks good!

[superflekmoonbird]

Thanks guys. I'll take another look at where the front leaf spring should go...above or below the frame